The Faroe Islands: the perfect break

Familiar to most only from the shipping forecast, the Faroe Islands – an autonomous province of Denmark – are at the mercy of the Gulf Stream with a climate that is changeable at best, and sometimes tempestuous. Head elsewhere if you prefer your sunshine guaranteed. Yet, this unpredictability can also be an asset. An extraordinary light plays on the islands, as forms take shape, ebb, fade and change character in tandem with the mist, wind, rain and sunshine.

Towering sea cliffs front the northern islands, where human life would seem implausible were it not for the brightly coloured timber houses that dot the landscape. Starkly beautiful mountainous interiors stretch for mile upon mile, often with nary another soul to disturb the solitude of hikers. The gentler southern islands are also prime territory for summer walks, punctuated at every turn by waterfalls, or the call of an oyster-catcher or curlew. Indeed, these islands are a haven for bird life; cliff-face vantage points are staked out by puffin, guillemot, Arctic terns and many other species, which all number among the millions of winged visitors each summer.

Don’t dismiss Tórshavn either. The islands’ low-key capital (population about 19,000) on the main island of Streymoy is a surprisingly quirky place, with a distinct sense of style. It is also a veritable metropolis compared to most of the islands’ other settlements, which largely rely on fishing for sustenance, and, occasionally, a traditional, controversial, pilot whale hunt.

To see island life at its most exuberant, consider a visit on July 28 and 29, when many Faroese cram into Tórshavn for the Ólavsøka Festival, a two-day celebration, with the focal point a traditional Viking rowing race.

Get there by

Plane. Atlantic Airways (00 298 34 10 00; www.atlantic.fo ) operates a twice-weekly service from London Stansted to the main airport on Vágar during summer (until September 1). A return flight costs from about £300. The tour operator Sunvil Discovery (020 8568 4499; www.sunvil.co.uk ) also operates package holidays to the islands.

Stay at
Hotel Føroyar (00 298 317500; www.hotelforoyar.com ), one of the islands’ most comfortable hotels. Don’t be put off by its location, a 20-minute walk up the slope above Tórshavn. This is a boon as its rooms – minimalist with Nordic designer furnishings and grass roofs – all have a fine view over the city's harbour and beyond to the island of Nólsoy. A double room, including breakfast, costs from 1700 kroner (£200) when booked online. It also has an excellent restaurant (see ‘Have dinner at’ below).

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